Terrarium Care & Maintenance Guide

Everything you need to keep your terrarium thriving — from daily checks to seasonal adjustments.

Terrarium Illustration

Maintenance Schedule

📅 Daily (1-2 minutes)

  • Check temperatures: Verify the basking spot is 88-95°F and the cool side is 75-80°F. Use a digital gun thermometer for accuracy.
  • Visual health check: Look at your animal's eyes, skin, and activity level. Are they alert?
  • Spot-clean: Remove any visible waste or uneaten food immediately.
  • Water: Refill the water dish with fresh, dechlorinated water.

📅 Weekly (15-20 minutes)

  • Deep spot clean: Sift through the top layer of substrate to remove buried waste or shed skin.
  • Water dish: Take it out and scrub it with hot water (no soap).
  • Equipment check: Ensure thermostat probes are secure and bulbs are working.
  • Misting: If bioactive, mist lightly to keep the cleanup crew hydrated, but avoid soaking the substrate.
  • Humidity check: Ensure levels stay between 20-40%. If too high, increase ventilation.

📅 Monthly (30-45 minutes)

  • Substrate inspection: For non-bioactive setups, check for saturation or smell. Replace spot-cleaned areas if needed.
  • Bulb check: UVB bulbs degrade invisibly. Mark the purchase date and replace every 6 months.
  • Plant maintenance: Trim any overgrown live plants to prevent them from becoming hiding spots for pests or blocking heat.
  • Weight check: Weigh your animal to track growth trends.

📅 Seasonal / Quarterly

  • Winter: Ambient room temps drop. You may need a higher wattage bulb or a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) for nighttime.
  • Summer: Risk of overheating. Move enclosures away from direct windows. Reduce basking wattage if ambient temps are high.
  • Deep Clean: Fully replace substrate in non-bioactive setups every 3-4 months.

"Is This Normal?" Troubleshooting

"My reptile is hiding all day"

Yes, this is completely normal. Many desert reptiles are crepuscular (active at dawn/dusk) or nocturnal. They sleep during the hottest part of the day to conserve energy.

When to actually worry: If they are not emerging to eat at dusk/dawn for 2+ weeks, or if you notice visible weight loss (tail thinning, hip bones showing).

"There's condensation on the glass"

This is unusual for a desert terrarium and suggests humidity is too high or ventilation is blocked.

When to actually worry: If the condensation is constant. Check that your screen top isn't covered by plastic or towels. Reduce misting frequency immediately to prevent respiratory infections.

"My reptile won't eat"

Don't panic yet. They may be in a shedding cycle (blue phase), entering brumation (winter slowdown), or just stressed from a recent move.

When to actually worry: If it has been 3+ weeks without eating (outside of winter months), or if they are regurgitating food. Check your temperatures—too cool, and they can't digest.

"The substrate smells bad"

In a bioactive setup, a slight "earthy" smell is good. In a dry setup, there should be almost no smell.

When to actually worry: If you smell ammonia, sourness, or rot. This means waste has built up or something has died. Locate the source and do a deep clean immediately.

"My heat lamp keeps burning out"

This is often a fixture issue, not a bulb issue. Cheap fixtures can vibrate the filament loose.

When to actually worry: If you are using a bulb wattage higher than your fixture rating (fire hazard). Switch to a Ceramic Heat Emitter for constant heat, or use a thermostat to cycle the bulb on/off rather than dimming it.

When to Wait vs. When to Act

A quick framework to help you make decisions without panic.

🟢 Wait & Watch

  • New animal hiding for the first week (adjustment period).
  • Slight color dullness or cloudy eyes (shedding starting).
  • Decreased appetite during winter months (brumation).
  • Digging behavior (preparing to shed or exploring).

🔴 Act Now

  • Animal hasn't moved in 24+ hours (unusual lethargy).
  • Visible injuries, discharge from eyes/nose/mouth.
  • Temperature gauge readings are consistently wrong (fix environment immediately).
  • Mold growing in a dry, arid setup (humidity crisis).

Winter Care

Dry air from home heating systems can desiccate your terrarium faster than usual. Monitor humidity closely. You may need to increase misting slightly or provide a moist hide to assist with shedding.

Summer Care

Overheating is the biggest killer in summer. Even with AC off, a tank in direct sunlight can hit 110°F rapidly. Ensure thermostats are functioning and consider lowering bulb wattage. Never rely on "room temperature" to cool a tank.